What Is Leather Splitting?

Leather splitting is a critical step in leather production, transforming thick hides into usable materials for various applications. But what is leather splitting?

This complex process maximises the efficiency of each hide and plays a pivotal role in determining the quality, texture, and durability of the final product, whether it's leather handbags or other types of leather goods. Look closer at how leather splitting works and impacts the materials you use daily.

What Is Leather Splitting?

Leather splitting refers to dividing an animal's hide into multiple layers during leather production. This maximises the hide's use, allowing manufacturers to create different types of leather, such as full-grain or top-grain leather and split leather.

By splitting the hide into layers, manufacturers can produce leather with different characteristics suitable for a wide range of products. First, they separate the top-grain layer for high-quality leather goods like leather shoulder bags and belts. Then, they use the remaining layers to create split leather, suede, or nubuck. By splitting the hide into two or more layers, the manufacturers utilise all leather parts, making the process economically and ecologically beneficial.

Types of Split Leather

Leather splitting results in several distinct types of leather. Here are the most common types of split leather:

• Grain split: This is the topmost layer of the hide, which retains the exterior fibres. This leather is durable and tear-resistant, perfect for high-quality items such as luxury handbags, leather jackets, high-end leather laptop bags, leather shoes, and leather wallets.
• Flesh split: This layer comes from the underside of the hide. It's softer and more flexible than the grain side, but it is less durable. It's common in products that don't undergo heavy wear and tear, like the inner lining of handbags, wallets, and belts.
• Drop split: This middle layer is rough on both sides and comes from thicker hides. It is common in smaller accessories and crafts, though it's less durable than the grain split.
• Suede: Leatherworkers make suede leather by sanding or brushing the flesh side of the hide, giving it a soft, velvety texture. Due to its unique aesthetic, suede is popular in clothing, footwear, and accessories.
• Bonded leather: Manufacturers make bonded leather by glueing together leftover leather scraps using an adhesive, usually polyurethane. While less durable than full-grain leather, it's a cost-effective alternative for products that don't require the same strength.

The Leather Splitting Process

Splitting leather involves several key steps, each contributing to the final product's quality and characteristics.

1. Preparation of the Hides

Before the splitting process begins, leatherworkers prepare the hides to ensure they are in the best condition for splitting. This preparation involves cleaning, soaking, and removing any unwanted parts. Proper preparation is crucial for maximising the hide's potential and ensuring high-quality leather products.

2. Cleaning and Soaking the Hides

The first step is to clean the hides thoroughly, removing dirt, grease, and other impurities. Once clean, the leatherworkers soak the hides in water for several hours or overnight, depending on the leather's thickness. Soaking softens the leather, making it more pliable for the splitting process. This step ensures the leather maintains its integrity. It prevents it from becoming too stiff during splitting, which could cause uneven layers.

3. Removing Hair and Flesh from the Hides

After soaking, the next step involves removing the hair and excess flesh from the hide. Manufacturers use chemical or mechanical tools to strip the hair and remove the flesh. This step ensures the hide is clean, smooth, and ready for the splitting machine. Removing these layers is crucial to ensuring that only the best parts of the hide are present in the final products.

4. Splitting the Hide

Once the workers have cleaned, soaked, and stripped the hide, it's time to split the leather. They place the hide in a leather-splitting machine, which uses sharp blades to slice the leather into different layers. The machine works with high precision, ensuring each layer is of the correct thickness for its intended use. Depending on the desired product, the top layer becomes full-grain leather. At the same time, the machine turns the remaining layers into split leather, suede, or nubuck.

5. Assessing the Resulting Layers

After the leather is split, the leatherworkers divide the hide into two main layers:

• Top-grain layer: This is the highest-quality layer, coming from the top portion of the hide. It is known for its durability, strength, and smooth texture. Full-grain leather products, such as luxury handbags, shoes, and premium leather goods, utilise this layer.
• Split leather layer: This is the lower layer of the hide and is rougher in texture. Although less durable than the top-grain layer, split leather is still highly versatile and common in many products, including belts, wallets, footwear, and automotive upholstery. Manufacturers can further process it to create suede or nubuck for a softer, velvety texture.

Once these layers have undergone processing, the manufacturers can treat, dye, and use them to create a variety of leather goods, offering different textures and finishes for various applications. 

Best Uses of Split Leather

Split leather offers affordability, durability, and versatility, making it a popular choice across various industries. Whether looking for fashion accessories or industrial gear, split leather is vital in producing a wide range of products.

• Upholstery: Split leather is standard in furniture, especially in areas with less wear, like the backs and sides of chairs and sofas. If you're in the market for a car with leather upholstery, you'll often find split leather in lower—to mid-range models.
• Footwear: Split leather is a durable and cost-effective option for shoes, boots, or sneakers. It's a popular choice for many types of footwear, offering both longevity and value.
• Fashion accessories: Looking for stylish accessories like handbags, belts, wallets, or jackets? Split leather is often the go-to choice. Its versatility means manufacturers can craft it into various textures, including smooth leather and suede, so you can easily find something that suits your style.
• Industrial applications: If you work in construction or manufacturing, you might rely on split leather for your gloves and protective gear. Its durability and abrasion resistance make it ideal for heavy-duty tasks.

Benefits and Drawbacks of Split Leather

Split leather is an excellent option if you're looking for something affordable, durable, and versatile. But, like any material, it has its benefits and drawbacks.

Benefits of Split Leather

• Affordability: Split leather is more cost-effective than full-grain leather, making it a budget-friendly choice for many products.
• Durability: While not as strong as full-grain leather, split leather is still durable and wear-resistant, especially when properly maintained.
• Versatility: Split leather is present in various products, from fashion accessories like handbags and belts to industrial items like work gloves and tool pouches.
• Availability: Because it comes from the lower layers of the hide, split leather is more readily available and easier to produce in large quantities.
• Sustainability: Leather splitting maximises the use of each hide, reducing waste and making leather production more sustainable.

Drawbacks of Split Leather

• Lower durability: Split leather is thinner and less durable than full-grain leather, which makes it more susceptible to wear and damage.
• Less patina development: Unlike full-grain leather, split leather develops a different, rich, natural patina over time, making it look less appealing as it ages.
• Prone to damage: Split leather is more susceptible to damage from scratches, stains, and moisture because it lacks the protective outer layer of full-grain leather.
• Weaker structural integrity: Split leather's thinner nature can make it less stable and prone to bending or losing shape, especially in large or heavy products.
• Maintenance challenges: Since craftspeople often treat split leather with coatings to enhance its appearance, it may require more careful cleaning and conditioning to maintain its look.

Split Leather vs. Full-Grain Leather: Which Is Better?

When comparing split leather and full-grain leather, it's essential to weigh the unique qualities of each. Both types of leather have their strengths, but understanding their differences will help you determine which one suits your needs best. Let's take a closer look at how split leather and full-grain leather compare.

Quality and Durability

Full-grain leather is the most durable and potent type, offering superior resistance to wear and tear. It lasts longer than split leather, which is thinner and less durable.

Appearance and Texture

Full-grain leather has a rich, natural texture with visible grain patterns and imperfections, giving it a unique and luxurious feel. Split leather, on the other hand, tends to be smoother and more uniform, often resembling suede or smooth leather finishes.

Cost

Split leather is more affordable due to its lower quality and thinner texture. Full-grain leather's superior durability and luxurious look and feel justify its higher price tag, making it a premium investment for high-end products.

Thickness

Full-grain leather retains the hide's natural thickness, offering a more substantial material for crafting. Split leather is thinner because it comes from the lower layers of the hide, making it less robust.

Resistance to Stains and Moisture

Due to its dense and tightly packed fibres, full-grain leather is more resistant to stains and moisture. Split leather, being thinner and less tightly woven, is more susceptible to absorbing water and stains and requires extra care.

Patina Development

Full-grain leather develops a beautiful, rich patina with exposure to sunlight, air, and use. This natural aging process enhances its appearance. Split leather, however, develops a different patina and may lose its charm over time.

Full-grain leather stands out for its superior quality, durability, and luxurious appearance, making it the ideal choice for high-end products. Split leather offers a more affordable option for less demanding applications. 

Caring for Split Leather Products

To make sure your split leather items remain in top condition for years to come, it's essential to follow proper care guidelines:

• Clean the leather thoroughly: Clean your split leather items with a damp cloth to remove dirt. Use a special suede brush for suede items to maintain their texture.
• Condition the leather: Apply a leather conditioner regularly (as long as the brand recommends) to keep the leather supple. Be sure not to overcondition the material, as this can soften the leather too much and cause it to lose its shape.
• Repair the leather when necessary: For minor scratches or marks, use a suede eraser or a damp cloth to clean the area. For more significant damage, professional repair services may be necessary.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is leather splitting?

Leather splitting is the process of thinning leather to a consistent thickness. It is essential for creating different types of leather, such as full-grain and split leather, which are common in handbags, footwear, and other products.

Is split leather good quality?

Split leather is lower quality than full-grain leather but can still be durable and versatile. It is often used in products like upholstery, belts, and wallets.

How thick is leather splitting?

Leather splitting typically occurs at a thickness between 1mm and 3mm, depending on the desired final product and its intended use.

What advancements have taken place in leather splitting?

The shift from manual thinning to machine splitting — introducing precise blades, leather thickness gauges, laser cutters, and digitally controlled machines — has dramatically improved efficiency and precision in leather production.

How can the durability and appearance of split leather be improved?

Craftspeople can improve the durability and appearance of split leather through methods like embossing and coating, which add textures and colours while making the leather more resistant to wear, fading, and other forms of damage.

What machines and tools are used for leather splitting?

Leather-splitting machines, precision blades, leather thickness gauges, and advanced technologies like laser cutters and digitally controlled splitting machines, which improve precision and production efficiency, are examples of leatherworkers' machines and tools for leather splitting.

How can we care for split leather products?

Use suitable leather conditioners and apply repair methods to prevent damage and maintain the quality and appearance of split leather products over time.